Bird Houses


To me, birds are the soul of the garden, and that may be why I have so many birdhouses strategically placed throughout my property.  I’d hate to admit how many, you may have me committed.  Whether working in my garden, or sipping wine on the patio, these little creatures are certainly entertaining.  


What I have learned:

“My” birds only like the black oil sunflower seeds.  They’ll scatter and ignore the other seeds in any mixed-seed mixtures.  However, during the summer, I’ll supply cracked corn in the feeders, eliminating the mess of the sunflower hulls.
 
Don’t place a bird house under a bedroom window.  Trust me - unless of course you want to be woken up very, very early.

The only effective way to clean a bird bath is with a splash of bleach and a little water.  Give it a good scrubbing with a stiff brush then let it sit for a few minutes, and rinse - but NEVER in your good clothes!

Children find birds and other backyard wildlife fascinating, giving them an appreciation and respect for nature.  They enjoy making bird houses, fruit wreaths, and peanut butter and seeded pinecones for the birds.   You’ll also see the neighborhood children checking the birdhouses on their way to and from school.

The recommended spacing between the birdhouses doesn’t hold true in my garden.  I placed six birdhouses on my deck for decoration, only a foot apart from each other, and had three families move in.  While this was nice to have them so close by to observe, the downside is we felt guilty if we used the deck. Interestingly, when the deck was used, and it was rare, the birds got used to us and if we sat quietly, they went about their normal routine.

I have a couple of wonderful folk art birdhouses inside my home along with hand-carved birds.  This is not a good thing according to my superstitious Italian mother-in-law.  Not to worry, her son hasn’t met an untimely end.

I absolutely adore the look of driftwood on bird houses, and it makes a fabulous perch!

On a few occasions, I have gathered friends together on a Saturday morning to construct birdhouses.   Needless to say, this get-together is hilarious and loud.  I used recycled wood and would recommend cutting the wood beforehand – so much safer.    Coffee and crafts with good friends - how can you beat it?

 
Three little faces peeking out




The following information was taken from a US Fish & Wildlife Service pamphlet, "Homes for Birds."  This is the most helpful of all the bird house information I have found, which includes dimensions.  I have enclosed what I consider the most pertinent information here for our convenience, but please note that it links back to their website which offers additional information.
 
 

Selecting a House
In the bird house business, there's no such thing as "one size fits all." You need to decide which bird you want to attract, then get a house for that particular bird.
Look through any book or catalog and you'll see bird houses of all sizes and shapes, with perches and without, made of materials you might not have thought of: recycled paper, gourds, plastic, rubber, pottery, metal, and concrete. So what makes a "good" bird house? It's a combination of quality materials and design.

Materials
Of all the available building materials, wood is about as good as you can get. It's durable, has good insulating qualities, and it breathes. Three-quarter-inch-thick bald-cypress and red cedar are recommended. Pine and exterior grade plywood will do, but they're not as durable.
It makes no difference whether the wood is slab, rough-cut or finished, as long as the inside has not been treated with stains or preservatives. Fumes from the chemicals could harm the birds. There's no need to paint cypress and cedar, but pine and plywood houses will last longer with a coat of water based exterior latex paint. White is the color for purple martin houses. Tan, gray, or dull green works best for the other cavity nesting species. The dull, light colors reflect heat and are less conspicuous to predators. Don't paint the inside of the box or the entrance hole. Regardless of which wood you select, gluing all the joints before you nail them will extend the life of your bird house. Galvanized or brass shank nails, hinges, and screws resist rusting and hold boxes together more tightly as they age. Resist the temptation to put a metal roof on your bird house. Reflective metal makes sense for martin houses up on a sixteen-foot pole, but when it's tacked onto a roof of a wood chickadee house, the metal is more likely to attract predators. Natural gourds make very attractive bird houses. They "breathe," and because they sway in the wind are less likely to be taken over by house sparrows and starlings. Grow your own gourds and you'll have dozens to choose from in the years ahead. If you don't have the space to grow them, a coat of polyurethane or exterior latex (on the outside only) will add years to the one you have. Properly designed pottery, aluminum (for purple martins only), concrete, and plastic houses will breathe and are durable, but don't drop them. Be sure to provide ventilation, drainage, and easy access for maintenance and monitoring. Concrete (actually a mix of concrete and sawdust) offers protection other houses cannot: squirrels cannot chew their way in.

Design
How elaborate you make your bird house depends on your personal sense of aesthetics. For the most part, all the birds care about is their safety and the right dimensions: box height, depth and floor, diameter of entrance hole, and height of hole above the box floor. Refer to the following chart, keeping in mind that birds make their own choices, without regard for charts. So don't be surprised when you find tenants you never expected in a house you intended for someone else.

Nest Box Dimensions

                 Box      Box      Entrance   Entrance   Placement

                 floor    height   height     diameter   height

   Species       inches   inches   inches     inches     feet

   ===============================================================

   American

   Robin*        7x8        8      ---         ---       6-15

   ---------------------------------------------------------------

   Eastern &

   Western

   Bluebird      5x5      8-12     6-10       1-1/2      4-6

   ---------------------------------------------------------------

   Mountain

   Bluebird      5x5      8-12     6-10       1-1/2      4-6

   ---------------------------------------------------------------

   Chickadees    4x4      8-10     6-8        1-1/8      4-15

   ---------------------------------------------------------------

   Titmice       4x4     10-12     6-10       1-1/4      5-15

   ---------------------------------------------------------------

   Ash-throated

   Flycatcher    6x6      8-12     6-10       1-1/2      5-15

   ---------------------------------------------------------------

   Great

   Crested

   Flycatcher    6x6      8-12     6-10       1-3/4      5-15

   ---------------------------------------------------------------

   Phoebes*      6x6        6      ---         ---       8-12

   ---------------------------------------------------------------

   Brown-headed

   Pygmy and

   Red-breasted

   Nuthatch      4x4      8-10     6-8        1-1/4      5-15

   ---------------------------------------------------------------

   White-

   breasted

   Nuthatch      4x4      8-10     6-8        1-3/8      5-15

   ---------------------------------------------------------------

   Prothonotary

   Warbler       5x5        6      4-5        1-1/8      4-8

   ---------------------------------------------------------------

   Barn

   Swallow*      6x6        6      ---         ---       8-12

   ---------------------------------------------------------------

   Purple

   Martin        6x6        6      1-2        2-1/4      6-20

   ---------------------------------------------------------------

   Tree and

   Violet-Green

   Swallows      5x5      6-8      4-6        1-1/2      5-15

   ---------------------------------------------------------------

   Downy

   Woodpecker    4x4      8-10     6-8        1-1/4      5-15

   ---------------------------------------------------------------

   Hairy

   Woodpecker    6x6     12-15     9-12       1-1/2      8-20

   ---------------------------------------------------------------

   Lewis's

   Woodpecker    7x7     16-18    14-16       2-1/2     12-20

   ---------------------------------------------------------------

   Northern

   Flicker       7x7     16-18    14-16       2-1/2      6-20

   ---------------------------------------------------------------

   Pileated

   Woodpecker    8x8     16-24    12-20        3x4      15-25

   ---------------------------------------------------------------

   Red-Headed

   Woodpecker    6x6     12-15     9-12         2       10-20

   ---------------------------------------------------------------

   Yellow-

   bellied

   Sapsucker     5x5     12-15     9-12       1-1/2     10-20

   ---------------------------------------------------------------

   Bewick's and

   House wrens   4x4      6-8      4-6        1-1/4      5-10

   ---------------------------------------------------------------

   Carolina

   Wren          4x4      6-8      4-6        1-1/2      5-10

   ---------------------------------------------------------------

   Barn Owls    10x18    15-18       4          6       12-18

   ---------------------------------------------------------------

   Screech

   Owls and

   Kestrel       8x8     12-15     9-12         3       10-30

   ---------------------------------------------------------------

   Osprey       48x48 platform

   ---------------------------------------------------------------

   Red-tailed

   Hawk and

   Great

   Horned Owl    24x24 platform

   ---------------------------------------------------------------

   Wood Ducks    10x18   10-24    12-16         4       10-20

   ---------------------------------------------------------------

   *Use nesting shelf, platform with three sides and an open front

 

Now that you have the correct dimensions for your bird house, take a look at how to make it safe: ventilation, drainage, susceptibly to predators, and ease of maintenance.

Ventilation
Without air vents, boxes can turn into bird ovens. There are two ways to provide ventilation: leave gaps between the roof and sides of the box, or drill 1/4" holes just below the roof.

Drainage
Water becomes a problem when it sits in the bottom of a bird house. A roof with sufficient slope and overhang offers some protection. Drilling the entrance hole on an upward slant may also help keep the water out.
Regardless of design, driving rain will get in through the entrance hole. You can assure proper drainage by cutting away the corners of the box floor and by drilling 1/4 inch holes in the box floor. Nest boxes will last longer if the floors are recessed about 1/4 inch.

Entrance Hole
Look for the entrance hole (and exit) hole on the front panel near the top. A rough surface both inside and out makes it easier for the adults to get into the box and, when it's time, for the nestlings to climb out. If your box is made of finished wood, add a couple of grooves outside below the hole. Open the front panel and add grooves, cleats, or wire mesh to the inside. Never put up a bird house with a perch below the entrance hole. Perches offer starlings, house sparrows, and other predators a convenient place to wait for lunch. Don't be tempted by those beautiful duplexes or houses that have more than one entrance hole. With the exception of purple martins, cavity-nesting birds prefer not to share a house. While these condos look great in your yard, starlings and house sparrows are the only birds inclined to use them.

Dining on the deck
Accessibility
Bird houses should be easily accessible so you can see how your birds are doing and, when the time comes, clean out the house. Part of being a responsible bird house landlord is your willingness to watch out for your tenants. Monitor your bird houses every week and evict unwanted creatures: house sparrows, starlings, rodents, snakes, and insects. Be careful when you inspect your bird boxes. You may find something other than a bird inside. Don't be surprised to see squirrels, a mouse, a snake, or insects. Look for fleas, flies, mites, larvae, and lice in the bottom of the box. If you find insects and parasites, your first reaction may be grab the nearest can of insect spray. If you do, use only insecticides known to be safe around birds: 1% rotenone powder or pyrethrin spray.  If wasps are a problem, coat the inside top of the box with bar soap. Here's how to check your nest boxes: Watch the nest for awhile. If you don't see or hear any birds, go over and tap on the box. If you hear bird sounds, open the top and take a quick peek inside. If everything's okay, close the box. If you see problems (parasites or predators), remove them and close the box. Here's where a bird house with easy access makes the job simple. Most bird houses can be opened from the top, the side, the front, or the bottom. Boxes that open from the top and the front provide the easiest access. Opening the box from the top is less likely to disturb nesting birds. It's impossible to open a box from the bottom without the nest falling out. While side- and front-opening boxes are convenient for cleaning and monitoring, they have one drawback: the nestlings may jump out.

#birds #birdhouses

No comments:

Post a Comment